Silk Mermaid » Scaling up the model

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Coral Mermaid (2006) - photo by Mike Edenfield

"If you are going to take your precious free time for months and build something, there is no excuse for second-rate work. You cannot claim client deadlines or lousy budget, since you have control over both of them.

"The opportunities to do the great defining pieces of your career come around once every couple of years. Are you going to waste those rare chances on a less-than-grand endeavor?"

Read "How it happened."

About Kim Graham

Kim has sculpted since the mid-1980s in a wide variety of media and sizes, ranging from fired clay figuratives to architectural ceramic pieces to 22-foot fiberglass dragons. The online Kim Graham Studios gallery shows some of her work. Her current interest is large-scale architectural pieces. Kim lives in a suburb of Seattle, Washington. She is accepting new commissions at kimsculptor (at) gmail (dot) com. (More about Kim Graham.)

Kim’s recommendations

Sculpting supplies

I use "Le Beau Touche" modeling clay from Chavant. This plasticine goes for approximately $4/pound. It is mid-level hardness, formulated for northern climates.

I make molds using these materials from Smooth-On corporation:

Mold Max 30 high-tear-strength silicone rubber
Plasti-Paste Trowelable Plastic
Thi-Vex II Silicone Thickener (thixotropic agent)

My supplier here in Washington state is Far West Materials.

(By the way, Smooth-On's site offers amazing must-see moldmaking video instructions. I wish I'd had these when I was starting out!)

I strengthen the mold rubber by adding small amounts of Fibermesh 150 e3 polypropylene multifilament fiber (often called "stealth fiber"), sold by concrete suppliers . Here in Seattle I use Glacier Northwest.

Glue gun

My hot glue gun, the 3M Scotch-Weld Hot Melt Applicator TC, costs about $100-140 and is well worth it. I’ve burned up seven ordinary $25 glue guns in the past two years. This orange beast can effortlessly put out several pounds of glue a minute. It requires specific shaped glue sticks available in 11-pound boxes. You can find great deals on the web.

Silk Mermaid > Scaling up the model

Scaling up the model

Posted by Allen | Art and design,Technique | Saturday 29 November 2008 4:23 pm

Scaling up the model

To get the other smaller cross-sections, use a carpenter’s pin jig. The cross-sections are labeled on the body at “one foot” marks. The explanation, along with photos of the rest of the scaling procedure, appears after the jump.

Overhead projector

Overhead projector

The next stage involves constructing a cardboard cross-section. To scale up the model accurately, I use an overhead projector. On the acetate, in the center of each cross-section, I draw a “one foot” line. When the projected image shows this line to be exactly one foot long, you know it is proportional. Label all the sections clearly for assembly later.

Cardboard cross-section

Cardboard cross-section

Here are the assembled cardboard cross-sections. The positions of the other sections are marked.

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