Silk Mermaid » Moldmaking: the hair (3 of 4)

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Inspiration

Coral Mermaid (2006) - photo by Mike Edenfield

"If you are going to take your precious free time for months and build something, there is no excuse for second-rate work. You cannot claim client deadlines or lousy budget, since you have control over both of them.

"The opportunities to do the great defining pieces of your career come around once every couple of years. Are you going to waste those rare chances on a less-than-grand endeavor?"

Read "How it happened."

About Kim Graham

Kim has sculpted since the mid-1980s in a wide variety of media and sizes, ranging from fired clay figuratives to architectural ceramic pieces to 22-foot fiberglass dragons. The online Kim Graham Studios gallery shows some of her work. Her current interest is large-scale architectural pieces. Kim lives in a suburb of Seattle, Washington. She is accepting new commissions at kimsculptor (at) gmail (dot) com. (More about Kim Graham.)

Kim’s recommendations

Sculpting supplies

I use "Le Beau Touche" modeling clay from Chavant. This plasticine goes for approximately $4/pound. It is mid-level hardness, formulated for northern climates.

I make molds using these materials from Smooth-On corporation:

Mold Max 30 high-tear-strength silicone rubber
Plasti-Paste Trowelable Plastic
Thi-Vex II Silicone Thickener (thixotropic agent)

My supplier here in Washington state is Far West Materials.

(By the way, Smooth-On's site offers amazing must-see moldmaking video instructions. I wish I'd had these when I was starting out!)

I strengthen the mold rubber by adding small amounts of Fibermesh 150 e3 polypropylene multifilament fiber (often called "stealth fiber"), sold by concrete suppliers . Here in Seattle I use Glacier Northwest.

Glue gun

My hot glue gun, the 3M Scotch-Weld Hot Melt Applicator TC, costs about $100-140 and is well worth it. I’ve burned up seven ordinary $25 glue guns in the past two years. This orange beast can effortlessly put out several pounds of glue a minute. It requires specific shaped glue sticks available in 11-pound boxes. You can find great deals on the web.

Silk Mermaid > Moldmaking: the hair (3 of 4)

Moldmaking: the hair (3 of 4)

Posted by Allen | Art and design, Technique | Sunday 30 November 2008 3:07 pm

I have encased the T-nut side of all of the bolts first, using a polyurethane resin reinforced with polypropylene fiber. It goes on fast and cures almost instantly.

Again, many more photos after the jump.

All the edges and sides have been done.

Now to make legs that will allow the mold (when I later remove it and turn it over) to stand upright and stable on the floor. I place a large sheet of level wood on the (soon-to-be) underside of the mold.

The mold legs in place

I’ve cut several pieces of wood to length and glued them in place with more polyurethane resin and fiber. There must be three legs per individual bottom mold piece.

With the legs glued in place, I've removed the wood floor.

With the legs glued in place, I have removed the wood floor.

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